Musical Instrument Restoration.


I have modified every horn I play to some extent.  I am going to tell you what I did, and what I learned.

J.W. Pepper Cornet:
peper1
     This was my first modified horn, and I love it.  It was made in about 1905,
which places it at about 103 years old!  When I first got it, it did not play hardly at all.  It was completely black with tarnish, had stuck valves and slides, missing parts, cracked tubing, etc.  The first thing I did was remove the tarnish, I didthis with pencil erasers, and lots of household chemicals.  Now the horn was gray instead of black.  I found sent the horn away to be fixed, and it was playable when it came back but sounded like a rabbit in distress (not good).  Some of the replaced parts did not match.  I found a bottle of Turtle Wax Chrome Polish in our bathroom closet, and that shined it up pretty nice.  I eventually got better polish, and even formulated my own.  I found several pin holes in the tubing, which I patched with clear fingernail polish, it works well for a temporary fix.  I then slowly and methodically started taking out the dents in the bell, by bending it roughly in place, and smoothing them out with a wooden
leadpipe 2
roller made for smoothing photography prints.  I then learned how to solder properly, by heating the part and then touching the solder to it.  I joined bent up and by now cut off mouthpiece receiver to the leadpipe, this sealed out a lot of air, a nd made it much more playable, it was easier to hit a note, and hold onto it.  I then learned to electroplate, and spot plated the horn, although this has all worn off at the time you are reading this, I am going to re-plate it when I get some time.  The last thing I did was anneal the bell.  When brass is bent of worked in any way, it gets harder, by heating the bell slowly and evenly with a propane torch, and then cooling it slowly, we relieve the stresses set up in the molecules, and the metal becomes soft again. this allows for a more efficient transfer of vibrations, which makes it sound better, the to ne is richer. 





J.W. York Cornet:
J.W. York Cornet
     This horn was made in 1913, and that makes it about 95 years old.  I cleaned it up when I got it, but it was missing pieces, so I could not play it, I sent it away to get it fixed (by different people) and I was pleased when it came back.  I didn't do much else to it except maintain it, it is my primary horn now, I play it everywhere I go.  I did learn that If one uses horn and rotor oil on the slides it works much better than slide grease.  I also modified the mo
uthpiece a little.





King Student Model Trumpet:
Trumpet
     This was my first horn, I do not know how old it is, and I do not really care. After getting my J.W. York, this horn became my primary guinea pig.  The first Thing I did was trip off all the lacquer whit metal polish, it took forever.  Then I gave it a good polishing, and it was super shiny.  I then began to experiment with copper plating on it, just to give it a unique appearance.  The copper is still there, but it doesn't look very nice, I may finish plating it someday, if I can borrow it long enough from the kid I sold it to.  I also annealed the bell, and attempted to electroplate the valves.  The annealing helped, but the electroplating did not, my solution was not good enough at the time.  I also perfected my soldering technique on this horn.  I will not be able to get more pictures of it, so for now this one will do.  I also discovered that one can modify a mouthpiece and make the horn sound radically different, more on that below.

Fluglehorn:
Fluglehorn
     This is a cheapo fluglehorn, but it plays okay.  I didn't do much to it except modify the mouthpiece a little.











Piccolo Trumpet:
pic1
     This is by far the most modified horn I own.  It is a junker Piccolo Trumpet made in China.  The first thing I did when I bought it was I stripped the lacquer, I did this by boiling the entire horn in a water/baking soda mi x.  This was much faster than using metal polish.  The next thing I did was completely reshape the bell.  It had a very abrupt flare, and it sounded terrible.  I took every had object I could get my hands on and used to to shove in there and stretch out the metal.  I opened up the bore some, and now the flare was less abrupt.  This significantly improved the sound.  After playing ti for a little while I decided the mouthpiece was junk, I had a lot of spare cornet mouthpieces laying around, but none of them gave me the tone I was looking for, so I greatly modded th e mouthpiece.  I also figured out that it did not play in tune at all. so I cut all the slides down a little bit and that helped.  I also cut down the main tuning slide, so that I could put it into a real key.  The last major thing I did was carve out the mouthpiece receiver so that it was a cone, not a cylinder.  This gave the single best improvement, aside from the mouthpiece modding.

Mouthpiece Modifications:
     This started with my trumpet, when I got a 3-C mouthpiece I no longer needed
my old 7-C, so I bored it out with a dremmel grinder.  I made it much deeper, and
wider and consequently got a more me
llow tone out of it.  I found I could use a
dremmel tool with a felt tip, and polishing rouges to make it very smooth inside. 
It worked pretty good.  Then I moved on to my Pic tru
mpet mouthpiece. 
Originally it was shaped like a 5-gallon bucket, flat with steep tall sides, bad. 
First I had to reduce the sides, and since I didn't have a belt sander, the only way
to do it evenly was by rubbing it in a circular motion on a knife sharpening stone. 
This slowly wore it down to the point I could properly round it out.  Now it works
much nicer.



Other Modifications:
mouthpiece
     Occasionally somebody will ask me to fix something, and here I will list a few common boo-boos that horns get, and how to fix them.
Sticky Valves:
Remove the valve, thoroughly clean with soap and water, and use metal polish if necessary.  Apply polish to valve chamber, replace valve, and work up and down for a while.  Remove valve and clean both valve and cylinder with soap and water.  Dry carefully, making sure no fibers or hairs stick to the valve.  Oil and replace valve, is should work fine now.

Stuck Slides:
Get a small propane or butane torch.  Wrap all nearby soldered joints in a cold wet rag.  Gently heat the stuck slide tubing (warning, this may damage instrument lacquer).  Get another wet rag, and when the slide is thouroughly heated, wrap around the slide crook, and pull on rag (also hold down the slides valve to relieve air pressure if necessary).  The slide should come out with a loud pop.

Unsoldered Braces or Loose Tubing:
Bend brace to proper position if necessary.  Clamp brace or tube in position with a wooden clothspin (or metal clamp would be better).  Sheild areas not being soldered with a cold wet rag.  Hold torch over joint to be soldered.  Apply solder after joint is hot, it will be sucked into the joint (use acid core solder).  Remove excess solder with a wet rag immediately.

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Scott Bogard. 2007